in french haute cuisine, a mixture of finely chopped fresh parsley, chives, tarragon, and chervil is called fines herbes. it is something of a shame to mince chervil because it is so pretty whole. like parsley’s daintier younger sister. i just read a brief summary of fines herbes and the debate about which herbs belong is as back-and-forth and heated as the hundred-years war, except this war has lasted 115 years, since escoffier in 1903. i am officially as neutral on the topic as switzerland. my only political stance is that, once again, it’s a shame to chop chervil. i’m a guerrilla warrior fighting for beauty.