one of the most beautiful travel experiences i’ve ever had was sitting on a rooftop in fez, morocco over morning coffee when the muezzins began calling from the minarets that were visible in every direction across the ancient city. one of my least beautiful experiences happened later that same day, when an insistent herbalist in a pharmacy held me (figuratively) hostage, called me “Madame,” and rubbed me with argan oil, perfumes, musk, and rosewater, while extolling the extravagant virtues of each, and trying to find the key that would unlock my purse and start the money flowing in his direction. this image reminds me of both the high point and the low point of that day.

wild rose buds

grass lake trail, saint paul, minnesota

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